Secrets to Finding the Best Waves

"Look at the ocean, tell me what you see...So many of us look, but we don't see. The ocean is alive. The energy is there. Once you see it, it will tell you when and where..." -Sean Collins

Surfline's chief forecaster and president Sean Collins provides readers with all the tools necessary to find the best surf on every possible swell, in his book Surfline's California Surf Guide: Secrets to finding the best waves. His chapter about Long Beach reads:

"The surf: Long Beach? Yup. Before the federal breakwater was constructed during World War II, Long Beach offered up some of the biggest waves you could find in California on a south swell. Offshore Bathymetry in the San Pedro Channel does an incredible job of focusing long period south swells toward Long Beach, and actually right through one of the entrances in the breakwater. The US Navy and container ship companies at Pier J were puzzled for years by the random harbor seiching that would occur, often bouncing these huge ships against the pilings for no apparent reason, which would bring all work to a screeching halt. In the late '80s Sean Collins researched the issue as requested by the US Navy and found that problems were caused by long period Southern Hemisphere swells. Since then the Port of Long Beach has built inner breakwaters to deal with the problem. There are still some fun waves in Long Beach down around the south end near 72nd Place up through Claremont Avenue, but only on huge west-southwest swells, and on south-southeast hurricane swells. When everything is too big and out of control, it might still be worth a look."

Sean Collins has been a change agent for many. He has given surfers a different point of view on reading the ocean. After gaining his insight, many might even feel more strongly about removing the breakwater. This might be making them realize more about the ocean and are able to understand where the problems are coming from. As Sean Collins points out, "Surfers read the ocean. They watch the energy- the waves, the direction the come from, the time in between sets, where certain waves are breaking and where they aren't, the currents, anticipating change with the tides and more. Surfers prepare for when they paddle out and surf. So they will know. But most surfers dont look deep enough, further below the ocean surface." I feel that he has empowered people to look deeper and begin to understand the depth of the ocean and has definitely changed the way surfers use Surfline as a tool for surf forecasting.

For more information on Sean Collins, his new book, or about joining or using Surfline visit:
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